Class A Customs PVC 8.5 Foot Wide - Membrane Only

PREPARATION

INSTALLATION

1. Route all necessary vent and accessory openings. Sand all wood decking openings, seams and edges to a smooth surface. Blow debris off roof (wood decking) with air hose.
2. Apply seam tape (2” minimum width) evenly onto roof and sidewall to cover sharp metal or fiberglass edge.
3. Optional: Apply a porous tape (masking or fiberglass mesh) to seam the decking where butted together. This will help hide decking seams and give the finished roof a smoother appearance while strengthening the joint.
4. Make sure all screw heads and surface is smooth and level throughout.
5. Remove membrane from box as soon as possible onto clean roof of unit. Do Not allow membrane to touch ground or dirty surface. Do Not allow membrane to touch sharp objects or surfaces. Membrane can be glued either side down.
6. Cut the roof sheet to fit roof length with an excess of at least 6” front and rear. Square as required.
7. “Bed Sheet” the roof. That is, fold it in half so half of the deck is exposed.
8. Apply adhesive in a wet film thickness of 8-10 mils with a paint roller or brush to the exposed half of the roof deck. (1 gal. will cover approximately 160-200 sq ft.)
9. Lay the roof membrane over the wet adhesive.
10. Before removing air pockets with a squeegee (gray neoprene head will not streak), the membrane must be lifted and pulled taut from each of the four corners of the roof. The membrane needs to be adjusted both in width (side to side) and length (front to rear) to ensure the roof is as flat as possible before the squeegee process.
11. Remove all air pockets with a squeegee; press firmly working from the center outward toward the edges. All wrinkles must be removed at this point for a quality installation. The roof will tighten and conform as the adhesive cures.
12. Repeat steps 6 through 11 for remaining half of roof. (In mass production situations the entire roof may be glued all at once.)
13. Using a utility knife “x” cut all roof openings. Make sure you round all 90-degree corners to eliminate the possibility of running cuts. Surplus material can be stapled inside the vent openings. Let surplus material drape over the side of the unit for perimeter finishing. The roof edges can be sharp – it is required that seam tape be used to avoid edge splits.
14. Apply putty /butyl tape to the backside of the roof-edge molding. Then while holding the bar, draw surplus material tight with a downward pull. Attach the drip edge bar, working outward from the center of the unit. When fully installed, use a utility knife to cut surplus material from below the bar.
15. Assemble and attach roof molding where the roof membrane meets the front and rear end caps. Remember the roof molding must be secured to a cross member.
16. Apply putty/butyl tape to all vents and accessories on the roof.
17. Seal around all vents and accessories. Apply sealant to all visible screw heads. Both edges of the front and rear roof molding must also be sealed. There is no need to spread the sealant as you are applying it. A minimum 3/8” bead will work for most applications.